Metropolis, part one

Alright, I’m going to get at least one update in before we leave for Izmir and the Aegean tonight. Been getting kind of lazy with this, but there’s been a lot of distractions this week (especially the drop-dead gorgeous Ukrainian girl who’s now in our Turkish State class. And she’s an International Relations major. Marry me.). ANYWAYS…

Date: Friday, July 9. Time: 7:30 am. Location: Istanbul. Our shuttle drops us off in Taksim Square, in the heart of the fourth-largest city in the world. After having just spent the last seven hours on a bus, killing time sleeping restlessly and playing games with Cathy, I am feeling equal parts exhausted and intrepid. We disembark (sans Clint and Luis, elsewhere in the city with their engineering class) to a grey sky and the sight of a McDonald’s thirty feet in front of us. We decide to enter and grab some breakfast. I am dismayed by both the lack of McGriddles and the inordinately (relatively) high prices – when you can grab a delicious doner for three lira ($2) at any number of street stalls, an eight lira cheeseburger combo is suddenly much less appealing. It’s one of the most expensive places here, but the prices are the same as back home, to give you a sense of things. Nonetheless, we sate our hunger and discover upon exiting that it is pouring rain. I did not expect the weather to drop below thirty degrees, let alone produce a torrential downpour, so my wardrobe of t-shirts and shorts does little to aid me. Luckily, at the first sign of rain hordes of umbrella salesmen materialize out of thin air and I solicit one for five lira. A small victory, but a victory nonetheless.



We make our way through the eerily empty streets searching for our two hostels, with me, Yun and Cathy having little success, before meeting up and deciding that most of us want to do the Bosporus cruise regardless of the less-than-ideal weather. It turns out most cruises are six hours, decidedly out of our time range, but we are soon approached by a Turkish man who claims to be a captain who can take us around on his boat for two hours at fifteen lira apiece. This is fine. The hour-long wait we spend in an unmarked van before we finally make it to his boat is not fine. Neither is the persistent drizzle. At least we see some sights and get some decent pictures off. I look pretty good sitting at the confluence of two continents, don’t you think?



Finishing this up, we make our way over to the Grand Bazaar. I decide with great prescience that Istanbul is not a city that pictures can do justice, so I snap a little video of our journey to the Bazaar which captures the atmosphere a little better (this will be coming later, videos take too long to upload). This turns out to be just about the last thing I do with my camera this week, as I forgot to charge it before leaving and the battery dies just as I snap a picture of the entrance. I seem to have a running trend of ****ups with my preparations for these trips so far, so this doesn’t overly surprise me – everyone else is constantly snapping pictures anyways, so I’ll steal some of theirs to augment this entry in a little while. The size of the place is stunning – over 4000 shops and stalls. You don’t really realize it when you enter, but when you’ve spent two hours walking around and haven’t seen the same shop twice it starts to hit you. We meet some other Edmontonians and eat some pricy but very worthwhile kebaps. Time to get my haggle on.

The deal with the Grand Bazaar is that nothing has a price tag. You walk up to a merchant and inquire about an item, and he names you an inordinately high price, because you’re just a stupid white boy who’s going to pay it because you don’t know any better. I, however, am a slightly less stupid white boy, and I am not about to let these Turks **** with me. My first purchase, a shirt, goes decently enough – from 20 lira to 12 as a final price. I watch some other people try their hands and pick up a few ideas before I decide to go tag-team one of these chumps with Yun and see what price we can get. This is how the conversation goes:

Merchant (noticing us browsing): Welcome, welcome! You want shirts? I give you very good price! Which one you like?
Yun: This one is alright, how much?
Merchant: Twenty lira.
Me: Twenty lira! You take us for fools! We should leave right now after such an outrageous insult!
M: Okay, okay. I give you this one for fifteen lira. Turkish cotton, very good quality.
Y (looking at my bag, with shirt inside): How much did you pay for your shirt?
N: Six lira.
M: Six lira? That is impossible. I do not believe it.
N: Tell that to the guy who sold it to me. Uzbek cotton, too, much better than the refuse you’re peddling. We didn’t like him much, though, so we only bought the one. Maybe if you come close we’ll have pity on you and buy something.
M: Twelve lira, and that is my final price.
Y: Not interested. We won’t do more than eight.
M: Ten lira. [We start walking away]. Nine lira. [No change]. Okay, okay, fine, eight.
N: There you go! Perhaps you are not an entirely worthless creature after all! Bring us two, and make it fast lest we change our minds.

We walk out with a shirt each at that price. Feeling confident, I make the mistake of strolling into the antiques section, where they have such things as Soviet war medals and Nazi paraphernalia. You slap a hammer and sickle and some Cyrillic characters on something and dangle it in front of my nose and I’m going to buy it, so this does not bode well for my wallet. I notice a particularly badass Great Patriotic War medal that costs much less than the solid gold Order of Lenin that initially caught my eye, and am able to get the shopkeeper down to about 60% of his initially quoted price. Vladdy Ilyich would be proud of me.



We depart the bazaar and make our way to our hostel for the first time. It turns out it’s just off of Istiklal Street, which is packed with dirt-cheap and delicious kebapcilar, doner stands and all sorts of stores, one of which is a place called Pandora. I could have easily dropped a couple hundred lira in this place, lined wall-to-wall with English language books on Middle Eastern, European and (former) Soviet Union politics, but I restrain myself to two books, one of which is the Nobel Prize-winning Snow, by Orhan Pamuk. It is nothing short of awesome. Somewhere in here we grab dinner and all head to a nice restaurant for some cheap beer. We (or at I) end up getting very intoxicated before Clint and Luis show up with their Turkish friends and we head out to another bar. I fall prey to one of my drunken weaknesses and get locked into a political discussion for most of the night with Utku, on the topic of Turkish relations with Central Asia and the Caucasus. After a good amount of this, the awkwardly segregated groups of Turkish students and exchange kids decide it’s time to leave, and we call it a night.

Splitting this one into two parts because I’m already at 1300 words for this entry. Part two (including the Byzantines and the nightlife) coming soon.

Hallways of always

Haven't updated this in a while so I figure I'll post some sort of recap. Went to Istanbul last weekend and it was absolutely insane - 15 million people in one city. I think it's probably the coolest place I've ever visited and I would definitely spend a month or two there, if not more. The guys are doing God knows what around the Mediterranean coast this weekend, so I'm heading to Amasra and the Black Sea coast with the girls to sit on the beach, drink some beers and see what the Turkish girls think of white boys. I'm also planning a little solo pilgrimage to Georgia (the country, not the state) in a few weeks, so hopefully that works out. Full update for both trips next week - I promise. Turkey just keeps getting better and better.

Alex Mork's Brain is Small

I’m leaving for the weekend in a couple hours, so I’m going to wrap up about a week in this entry in order to get this up to date before then. Some pretty good stuff in this one.

Woke up to the call to prayer last Friday. You can hear it throughout the whole campus, but I made the mistake of leaving my window open. My hangover is pretty rough, and despite downing a good liter of water before leaving on the tour that day, nothing is going to save me from the impending hell I am about to face. We’re doing the tour of Ankara today, and that means cramming into a tiny and scorching bus to wind through the streets to each destination. I barely hold it together and pray for a crash to put me out of my misery. During this torture, I hear someone telling a story about one of their friends, a South Korean expat, visiting his native country for the first time since his childhood and getting forced into completing the mandatory one year military service there. I wonder if this is what is going to happen to Eric in Taiwan. We can only hope.




Our first stop is the mausoleum of Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, the founder of modern Turkey. The place is absolutely immense, as one would expect: his picture is EVERYWHERE here. It’s in every office, every shop, every building, on every bill and on every coin. I walked into my dorm room for the first time and it contained a bed, a desk, and a picture of Ataturk. The mausoleum is cool, especially his cane that was secretly a rifle. I want one of those.




We visit the Citadel of Ankara, pictured above, which is nuts. You can get right up on top, with no safety railings or anything, and see the entire city sprawling out in all directions. This is followed by a trip to the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations, which is not nearly as cool as I had hoped. Eventually the tour finishes up, we head home and meet up with our friend Cihan, who was a host student last year. Cihan is a heavy drinker, which is surprisingly common here. What’s less common is that he actually understands just about every English saying or idiom, which is nice. We revisit Le Man, which he describes as “the best restaurant in Ankara”, and after my meal, I believe him. I had something called kozalak, which consists of chicken stuffed with mushrooms and cheese and probably ecstasy or something, because this was one of the best meals I have ever eaten. We head over to a pub and I fight through a couple pints over a game of Never Have I Ever. Cihan drinks nearly every time. I decide he is awesome.



The next morning, we wake up early to head to Kapadokya, the land of fairy chimneys and underground cities. On the four-hour bus ride there, we get embroiled in a debate on education. Me and Clint join forces when I cite Malcolm Gladwell for one of my points and it turns out he has read more Gladwell than I have. Good to see. We visit the massive Salt Lake in central Anatolia, which is a hundred miles wide but only two feet deep. We also stop at the Ihlara Canyon, which is packed with Byzantine-era rock-hewn churches, and then one of the underground cities in the area, which goes down a couple hundred feet. The idea of a hot air balloon at dawn is debated, but upon discovering that the post-dinner entertainment includes an open bar for ten percent of the price, the latter option quickly becomes much more popular. Dinner includes watermelon for the fifth consecutive meal. I have no idea why it’s so popular here, but I’m certainly not complaining. I talk to Esra, our advisor who has joined us for the trip, and discover that her thesis for her master’s degree in international relations was on Russian Eurasian politics and policies. I decide she is also awesome.




We are told the night will include free drinks and a show of traditional Turkish dancing in a cave restaurant. I am fully down with this. The waiter immediately plops down a massive bottle of rakı on the table. It is going to be a good night indeed. I crack into that while some whirling dervishes come out and do their thing, but they don’t whirl nearly as fast as I had hoped. I thought that in order to be close to God you had to really give’r on the whirling, but these guys kind of mailed it in. Eventually the show turns out as most touristy events like this do and they pull us all up and form us into some kind of Turkish conga line. This ends and I decide I am not nearly drunk enough to handle what the rest of the night might have in store, and henceforth my rakı consumption increases steadily. I am soon thankful for my foresight as the Turkish guys doing some sort of wedding dance thing call me into the middle. There is a black girl there and I guess I’m supposed to impress her or something. The Turkish guy who grabbed me gets into pushup stance in front of her and I do the same. We rattle off about fifteen apiece before he has had enough. I ask him “the hell are you stopping for buddy, I can go all day!” to no avail. I then have to flex my bicep, and the ***** in the centre gives me the thumbs down. Insert over-the-line racial joke here.

I return to my seat thinking I am done performing for the day, but I am terribly inaccurate. About half an hour later, a belly dancer comes down from the ceiling. She does her thing for around ten minutes before she begins gathering one male from each table. Cue reprisal of ominous foreshadowing music from the first entry. She eventually reaches ours and the group consensus is that I must return. I am about an eight out of ten drunk at this point, so I am all for it. Along with the other, significantly older men from the other tables, I perform some sort of incoherent twirling action for about fifteen minutes. I become very dizzy, but am rescued before the point of disaster by the dancer, who dismisses me. I return to my table with my arms raised, to raucous cheers. I am Jack’s inflated ego.

We retire to the hotel for the night with our tour guide, who has been quietly annihilating his own bottle of rakı, proclaiming in broken English that he is Mr. Happy. Fin.

The next day, we visit the Göreme Open Air Museum, which proves to be an interesting collection of rock churches and windswept canyon landscapes. We stop at a couple more viewpoints on our way back and climb pretty high into the backcountry at one. At the tourist shop at one, a guy recognizes my University of Alberta shirt. Turns out he graduated from there last year and is traveling the country with his friend. Small world.

We arrive back at the dorms at around 11, and despite the growing desire I have for sleep, I decide I should probably check my email and check up on what’s actually going on in the world. I grab my laptop and charger and head for the lobby, the only reliable place for wireless internet. After a few minutes, Sabrina sits down. She makes a few comments to me that I mostly ignore while I check up on what it would take to get into recent warzones like Abkhazia and Nagorno-Karabakh, before telling me at one point that I ‘should hook up with [her] sister’s friends’. Fine. I figure I’ll at least humor her, so I ask to see some Facebook pictures, to which she obliges. I immediately regret my words. These girls are horrendous. I begin to wonder what kinds of atrocities mankind must have perpetrated in order to be punished with the spawning of these hideous beasts, but come up short. During the third set of profile pictures, it becomes readily apparent that my gag reflex cannot physically handle the sight of any more such abominations. I inform Sabrina that I do not hook up with girls who look like something I might scrape off the bottom of my shoe, and return to the al-Jazeera article I was reading.

The rest of the week is pretty pedestrian in comparison. We plan our trip to Istanbul and hit Drunk again on Tuesday, with me and Jill having pretty good showings. Wednesday we go out with Oytun and his friends to a shisha (or nargila, as they call it) bar. We also get a Yemeni-Iraqi and a Montenegrin in our Turkish class. I’m too tired to really write or be funny at this point, though, so I’m gonna nap for a few hours before our bus leaves. Need to be well rested for the Istanbul clubs this weekend.

Down for the cause

I roll out of bed. It is 9 am. It is Canada Day. Mood: jubilant.

We head to our last Turkish class of the week. I walk in and exchange an approving glance with Yun when I notice our teacher is sporting a tank top. I like her panache. We learn a little more, ostensibly, but most of the guys are too distracted to really pick up on the dialogue exercises. Eventually we break for lunch and I eat something, I imagine.

Attempts to set up my wireless internet prove fruitless. The system is convoluted at best and it repeatedly defeats my attempts to crack it. My frustration is lifted when I discover the bazaar is on today and we are going to it. It proves to be quite the experience and it gives us a chance to try out the Turkish numbers we learned. Our bargaining is less than successful, however, and Clint leaves with two bananas, an apple and six eggs for seven lira. I guess they don't like the white boys.

We stop at the grocery store and eventually find our way back to campus, which is surprisingly close. On the way back, we pass what is effectively the campus pub, Drunk. Campus is technically dry, but this place is fifty feet from the gates and a ten minute walk from the dorms. This is most wonderful news.

Meeting up at the dorms, me, Sarah, Cathy, Sabrina and Jill head out to Drunk at about 9. It is Canada Day, and by God I am going to let these Turks know how we do things back home. The place is nice. Very nice. Open air booths next to a background filled with comfy armchairs and benches, with a screen playing music videos and World Cup games. Kick off the night with a couple stiff double rakıs before deciding to go it Big Lebowski style and get myself a White Russian. I should have known the Russkis would **** me.

It arrives in a cocktail glass. Even the girls' drinks are in normal tall glasses, but mine is in a ****ing cocktail glass. I look like I am in Sex and the goddamn City. My Y chromosome evaporates for the next five minutes as I am the butt of countless jokes and target of multiple photographs. Soon enough I am back on my game and downing beers while delivering some of my best commentary and one-liners of the trip to date. I drop about forty lira, but no matter. The social wheels are greased and I feel confident I can continue at a high level of hilarity from here. Memory is hazier than the night before, but the outing was top-notch.

Recapturing the vibe

This entry is gonna be a little shorter than the others, because there's been a full week and four nights of drinking between now and the events here, so it's not really too fresh in my mind anymore and I'm mostly going off notes. The second day here not a whole lot happened and I don't have any notes from it, so it must not have been very exciting anyways. I remember going to Kızılay with Clint and that's about it.

I decide to kick off the third day with some REAL cross-cultural leaps. At breakfast I picked up the milky/yogurty Turkish drink known as ayran. Upon tasting it, I discovered that it was not sweet and savory like I had hoped, but salty and bitter instead. Really? The exact opposite? It tastes like cottage cheese juice, but with less cheese and more milk and salt. It does not please me and is cast into the trash.

We go to our first Turkish language class and my spirits are lifted as I discover that our teacher is attractive. Very attractive. She's also wearing a ring with a stone the size of my fist, but I am not fazed. Just because there's a goalie doesn't mean you can't score. This bodes very well for the next six weeks indeed. We learn the alphabet and various basic words. During this time, the half cup of ayran I drank begins to wreak havoc on my innards and makes for a very disturbing visit to the bathroom after class. At lunch, Yun gets scratched by one of the stray cats that are everywhere and now needs rabies shots every week. It is very humorous. We have a lecture on Turkey and the EU in the afternoon with our professor for the Contemporary Turkey international relations course most of us are taking, and he cracks a bunch of jokes at the engineers' expense. I think we will get along famously.

In the evening, Cambak takes us all into town (to Bahçeli district this time). We wander around a bit and I pick up a pair of aviators. They are sick. I look like Tom ****ing Cruise when I put them on. We get dinner at a local restaurant and I have the Köfte İskender, which consists of meatballs and tomato sauce on top of bread with yogurt on the side. Delicious.

After dinner, we make our way to a local pub. We order a huge teamer-sized tube of Efes and our first sampling of the Turkish drink rakı (ra-KUH). It is served by pouring some into a glass and then pouring water into it, which causes the whole thing to turn a milky white colour. I am intrigued. I drink some. It tastes like mild Sambuca mixed with ouzo. I am very intrigued. None of the girls like it, so they all give their glasses to me. I could not be more intrigued.

We start collectively hammering away at the beer while me and Yun also work on the rakı. Cambak starts to get pretty drunk and cracks some jokes in broken English. At one point after a long discussion, Yun looks down at his beer and notices it's a good deal lower than it was when he last set it down. He makes a comment on this and Cambak replies that "I think it disappear into thin air". We all look at him confused before he shouts "THE THIN AIR OF MY BELLY! AHAHAHAHA!" I am almost in tears laughing. I decide he is my new best friend. We get into a big political discussion about birth rates and stuff as we proceed to drink more and more. Eventually we stumble over to the dolmuş stop and while we wait I empty my bladder onto what turns out to be a huge Turkish military base. From Canada with love motherfucker! My memory fades to black at this point, but I wake up in my own bed in the morning so all is good. I am starting to like Turkey very much.

Stranger in a strange land

Woke up on my first full day at about 7 am still wearing my clothes, contacts and even my hoodie. Still having no idea what to do about my present situation, I decided that my first course of action should be a shower, or at least SOMETHING to clean a full day of travel off me. The shower in the attached bathroom proved less receptive to the idea than I had hoped, first thwarting me by refusing to stay put in the attachment that held the showerhead in place and then by lacking any sort of shampoo, soap or even a towel. At this point I noticed the distinct lack of amenities in the entirety of the bathroom: not even toilet paper was present. Undaunted, I still managed something of a half-shower by manually using the showerhead and using my blanket from my bed to dry off. Fight through it.

At this point, I figured the next most pressing issue I should address was that of my orientation schedule. The man at the front desk spoke hardly any English, but another Turk in the lobby informed me that we would all meet out there around 9 am. I killed some time in my room reading before heading back out at the time he had mentioned to see what was really happening. Of the small crowd amassed there, two were obviously foreigners who were also clearly struggling with the present situation. I introduced myself and learned that they were Clint and Carolyn, and that they were indeed two of my fellow exchange students. They were Americans whose flights had been delayed through the night and who had also lost their luggage en route. I expressed my sympathies, but I was also reassured that at least I would not be the only one suffering from a lack of supplies.

Throughout the next half hour, other exchange students slowly filtered into the lobby. These included the other University of Alberta students I had met at our orientation back home: Cathy, Sarah, Sabrina and Yun. In addition, our group included Luis, like Clint, from the University of Texas, Leah, from Calgary, and Jill, from Queen's. I was somewhat surprised that my home university comprised half the participants for the program, but everyone there seemed cool enough, so I wasn't too concerned.

One of our host students, whose name I forget, guided us to the International Cooperations Office, where we finally received schedules and some information on the orientation. Here we met Nilay, who had been the coordinator for me and several others prior to arrival, and Esra, who did the same for the rest of the group. After a short presentation on METU, we also met Oytun, a local student who would guide us through the medical facility and take us to lunch that day. After some quickly forgotten presentation at the medical centre, we headed to the on-campus mall for our first real Turkish meal.

Arriving at one of the largest kebapci in the place, we perused the pictures in the menu while our guide translated. Oytun is perhaps the least-Turkish Turk I have met so far. He studied in England for a couple years, so he speaks English at native fluency and even has an English accent. His mannerisms are also much more West than East, which makes it kind of surprising when he launches into high-speed Turkish and reminds you that he is actually from this country. He's a funny guy, though, and one who we would see many times over the coming days. He helped us order once we had somewhat deciphered the cryptic menu items, with the men at the table all deciding on the massive mixed kebap platter. Go big or go home, right?

The decision turned out to be a fantastic one. I had read about the many different kinds of kebaps popular in the country, but it was something else entirely to see them arrayed before me. They included Adana kebap, İskender kebap and the internationally famous şiş kebap, along with small köfte meatballs. Yoğurt, pita bread and various small salads accompanied the meat portions, and the preceding bread and yogurt mezes were the perfect segue to the main course. Some of the salads were a little too Turkish for me to enjoy just yet, but everything else was spectacular. The variety provided a good base from which to launch further culinary excursions in the future, something which I have definitely taken advantage of.

After gorging ourselves, Oytun departed and we took the afternoon tour of several small museums on campus. They were mildly interesting at best, being comprised mostly of trivialities and replicas of pieces on display in museums elsewhere. Our guide was also less than enthusiastic and seemed to just be along for the ride more than anything. After a short trip to the mall to pick up basic supplies, we returned to the dorm around dinnertime to plan our next move, which for me, Yun and Luis ended up being a trip downtown to Ankara's Kızılay district. Luis's Turkish roommate Cambak (pronounced JAM-bak) offered to show us the sites, and we eagerly took advantage of the opportunity. We hopped on the crowded dolmuş into town and had an encounter with Turkish law-bending when the driver yelled something at us in Turkish. Cambak translated and told us that we were to duck down because we were passing a police car and the driver wasn't technically allowed to have more passengers on the bus than seats available. A bit of an eye-opener, for sure.




Arriving at our destination, we took off in the direction of the shops. The initial square we crossed provided a scene little different from that of New York, with tall buildings stretching off into the distance, which was not entirely unexpected; Ankara is a modern city, largely abandoned after the Middle Ages and built up from a population of five thousand to five million in the last ninety years. A few blocks of further travel showcased a different world entirely, however, as we entered Kızılay. Shops lined the streets and carts and street vendors blanketed the sidewalks, with nary an empty booth in site. Döner and roasted corn were being peddled in high quantity, along with knockoff clothing and various other items. It was very anachronistic to see these traditional merchants selling their wares a few feet in front of modern Nike and Gucci stores, but that's Turkey for you.


We wound past various construction sites and thousands of Turks before arriving at our destination, the acclaimed restaurant Le Man Kültür. With comics lining the walls and international cuisine mixed with traditional Turkish fare, it was an enigmatic location, and one that provided delicious as well. I had chicken and peppers wrapped in phyllo and drenched in yogurt and I was not disappointed. Cambak proved to be a great introduction to the local culture, as we discussed everything from food to football to politics. The experience was a microcosm of Turkish meals throughout the country, with generous portions of tantalizing meat and vegetables and fantastic service to boot. I also had my first taste of the ubiquitous local beer Efes, a tasty pilsner that is the better of every similarly-priced beer we have back home. We got a couple good shots taken by the waiter, and it was funny to see the diversity of the group: Turkish, Asian, Hispanic and Caucasian within the space of four people. See below.


Making our way back to the bus, we heard a half-translation of that one godawful Black Eyed Peas song about good nights, with Turkish verses and English choruses.
That was little compared to what the bus had in store, however, as Yun's outgoing tendencies combined with the good nature and fluent English of a Turkish man on the bus to garner us an invitation to his wedding in a couple weeks. Should be pretty interesting.

That was more or less the end of our nonstop first day in Turkey. I have class in a little over an hour, but hopefully I can make a little headway on the next entry before then. Right now the tavuk döner in the cafe is calling my name, however, so this is it for now.

Journey through pressure

A little behind on this update, but I've just now managed to get my wireless internet connection working. I'll start with my flights the first day and work through until everything is up to date.

The plan was to fly to Chicago, then switch to Turkish Airlines for a flight to Istanbul and then hop over to Ankara. I got a ride to the airport at about two and easily made it through US customs and security. Took my first flight to Chicago and arrived at about 8 pm local time. Had a bit of a hard time finding my terminal, but everything seemed to be working out. Didn't know what the deal with my luggage was, so I went to baggage claim looking for it, but the machine there informed me that it was connecting through and would meet me in Ankara. Cue ominous foreshadowing music.

Arriving at the Turkish Airlines gate was like the opening scene of Midnight Express (except, you know, I didn't have blocks of hashish strapped under my shirt). The small, out-of-the-way room was packed wall to wall with Turks presumably returning home, English was nowhere to be heard and the temperature was warm enough for me to start sweating slightly. Eventually, the flight boarded and I found myself being asked by the Turkish man next to me if I would mind switching spots with his young son sitting several rows up. Sure, I say. I've heard nothing but good things about Turkish hospitality, so I might as well reciprocate. Cue ominous foreshadowing music again.

It turns out the switch has me sitting next to a young child. I HATE children at the best of times, and an 11-hour flight is certainly not an atmosphere that is going to make me any more accommodating or understanding. This kid is probably about 8-10 years old, so he's right at that age where he can speak enough to be outgoing but has no conception of such things as personal space or the fact that strangers might not want to answer an endless barrage of trivial questions. I field these inane queries for a good fifteen minutes as the flight takes off before he is finally satisfied for the time being. I amuse myself by repeatedly defeating the onboard chess game on the screen in front of me and listening to Danger Zone a couple dozen times. Ironically, the music selection includes Giorgio Moroder's chase theme from Midnight Express. I wonder if the guy who picks those songs is Greek or Armenian.

Then, about three hours into the flight, something very unfortunate happens. The kid next to me, who has long since fallen asleep, drifts over and rests his ****ing head on my shoulder. I am immediately filled with rage accentuated by frustration. There is no possible way I can tolerate even five minutes of this, let alone God knows how many hours until he wakes up. I can't very well shake him awake either, for fear of him creating a scene that wakes up half the plane and leaves everyone staring at me like I'm George ****ing Costanza and I just ate an eclair out of the garbage. As the futility of my situation begins to sink in, I decide that I am going to need to take action soon for my sanity's sake, so I start fumbling around for something under my chair. This wakes the little bastard up and I thank God as he takes the hint silently. Crisis averted.

Trans-Atlantic air travel is a strange thing. Because you lose so many time zones going west to east, your day essentially passes in double time. Except it isn't double time, because at around 1 am, just as you hit the ocean, they dim the lights and close all the windows, and it goes back to being 9 pm again. Every once in a while someone briefly cracks a window and you're reminded that it's not actually evening in the middle of the Atlantic before they close it up and plunge the whole cabin back into twilight. At some indeterminate time the lights go back up and breakfast is served, but the whole plane continues in a sort of lethargic stasis until you land and it's evening again and an entire day has just sort of slipped past you. I don't think you can ever really get used to it.

Eventually, we close in on Istanbul at around 6 pm local time. I can see the Hagia Sofia from my window. It looks magnificent and its grandeur reminds me that half the known world was twice ruled from this city. The airport is identical to a Western one, except all the signs are in Turkish first and then English. I spend two minutes grabbing a visa and easily make my flight to Ankara in time with no ill effects other than a lack of sleep. Things are looking good. Right up until the landing.

Remember the luggage? Yeah. It wasn't there. I show up at the baggage claim and wait for a solid twenty minutes before determining it isn't coming. Asking for help gets me shuttled back and forth between various staff and offices before I am finally able to ascertain, via a near-useless information officer, that my luggage is nowhere to be found and I will need to call in the morning as they attempt to locate it. At this point it's 11 pm and I haven't slept in God only knows how many hours, so my only concern is finding a bed to sleep in. I grudgingly accept the current state of affairs and get into a taxi bound for Middle Eastern Technical University.

At this point, sleep is starting to become unavoidable. I begin to nod off for increasingly extended periods in the taxi as we continue the endless journey to the dormitories. At one point I awake to find us passing by an airport, which makes me wonder if the driver is ****ing with me and driving in circles. Soon enough, though, we arrive at my destination and I toss seventy lira the driver's way as I search for my building. Several helpful sets of Turkish directions later, I am getting my key from the front desk and passing out in my bed, unsatisfied with the current state of affairs that has me without even any toiletries or an idea of what time orientation is tomorrow morning, but too tired to do anything about it. A few minutes later the blissful oblivion of sleep claims me and clears my mind for the time being.

Wow, that was longer than I thought it was going to be. I would move on to the second day, but my friend's hot Iranian roommate just sat down across the lounge and I have to go test the waters. More to come later.